Playa Grande and the Leatherback Turtles.

So, 7 days ago, ( I think that's right) we left Nosara (a little sadly, but left none the less) and came to Playa Grande. We are still heading north. So if you're following on the map we've gone from Montezuma, Samara, Nosara, Playa Grande. At the moment we are about half way up the pacific coast of Costa Rica.

Playa Grande. Well here there isn't much. The area is now a national park and they aren't allowed to build close to the water anymore. A turn off for tourists who like to be beach front. I did find us a beach front hotel, the only one left, and the only one allowed. It's right in the middle of the park, and the owners actually had a hand in starting and setting up the park (a reason I think they are still there). The park was set up to help protect the Leatherback turtles that come to nest here every year. There are of course more animals that they protect, but when you consider how poorly the turtles are doing, it's a good thing they are trying something.

About 15 years ago the Leatherback's came to Playa Grande beach in the thousands. I mean literally 100000's. I was told stories that back then (which really isn't that long ago) the owner would go out a night with people staying at the hotel and they would wait for turtles. They would sit under the millions of shiny stars, and wait for them to nest while he told them stories and facts about the Leatherbacks. At this time, there was no park, and there were no strict regulations as there are now. But then again, many things are different.

Now, in this time, a time of worry for many about our Earth and her inhabitants, it is different. If you want to see the giant leatherback turtles coming up to nest you need to make an appointemnt with the park rangers. You go and pay 7$ each (children are free), give them your passport number and they will tell you when to come back for your 'tour'. The Leatherbacks arrive at high tide and usually in the dark - it's safer that way. High tide for us that week was around 2:30 am. The week before it was near 6pm, so we missed out on that. The first night we made reservations we actually slept through Chris' alarm, but the following night we made it. We got to the rangers station and waited for everyone to arrive. We all paid, and then they brought us all into a small room to tell us the rules and show us a little slide show.

No touching the Turtles.
No going near the Turtles head.
Stay in a single file line.
Stay together.
No flash lights.
No camera's.

They then cut the film short because the turtles had arrived. How did they know? Well, there is a group here called the Earth Watchers.They are an organization that watches the turtles and the beach and help to protect the Leatherbacks. They accept donations and you can probably find them on the internet as they are always looking for volunteers. I believe they charge 200$ per day or 2000$ per week to volunteer. They have a 'hatchery' on the beach,




and this is where they take the turtle eggs to keep them safe and then deliver them to the ocean afterwards. There is a lot of controversy about this group. One story I heard was that they will actually stand behind the turtles as they are laying the eggs and catch them in there zip-lock bags. We didn't see any of that, but they do stand much like soliders on the beach looking for anyone out of line. I also heard that at night you can see them walking around the beach with big plastic tubs filled with water and little turtle hatchlings, this is when they let them go and be free in the ocean, a fine thing, but they don't protect or watch any of the actual ocean. There is a lot of the Ocean that is still part of the park, and one complaint (of many) is that they do nothing about the fishing boats and nets that catch many of the hatchlings that get caught after they are let go. It seems sad to go to all the trouble of helping them be born, but nothing afterwards......

So, anyways, we are walking to the beach now. It's close to 1am and it's dark. The stars are out in full force. But there seems to be a strange feeling in the air. I'm not sure what it is yet. We are walking still and cross a path that I could have sworn was a quad track. I was wrong. This massive trail led from the water and past the high tide marks. That was from a turtle. As I looked towards where it ended I saw one of the Earth Watchers there with there red light's keeping a close eye on what was going on. We kept walking. Past another trail leading up the beach, and then we stoped. The group ahead of us were there taking there first look, we had to wait now (yes, and Oscar had to pee! - great timing!) So after around 20 minutes it was our turn. We watched as the first group left the turtle single file and then made our way up. Very quietly and in line we made a half circle around the back end of the turtle.

Wow, This Leatherback must have been at least 2 meters long. I am not kidding you! We stood there looking at this gigantic creature using her larger back flippers (is that what they are called?) to dig a hole for her eggs. We watched this in amazement for about 10 minutes. Just digging slowly and flicking the sand away. The hole was nearly 3 feet deep I would say, and I think she had more to go. So, single file we left the Leatherback alone and let the next group in for a look. We stood about 25 meters away and waited for the next 'showing'. By now I had figured out what that feeling was from before. It was the feeling of invasion. Don't get me wrong, this was a very cool and unforgetable thing we were witnessing, but an invasion none the less. I felt almost like a peeping tom looking into someone's bedroom late at night. But on we waited. Our chance came soon to witness the laying of the eggs. I should mention now that the boys were very tired, but very interested aswell with what was going on in front of their little eyes. They would comment on how large the turtle was, how deep the hole was, how many eggs she was laying and so forth. As late as it was, they did enjoy themselves.

So, after a glimpse into the Leatherback life on Playa Grande we made our way back to the hotel. We got back around 3:30 am and got right back to sleep (Oscar did think it was breakfast and wanted some pancakes, but we got him to sleep very soon). It was a great experience, although a little strange at the same time.

One more note about the Leatherbacks, it was said to me that 15 and even 10 years ago the number of Leatherbacks coming to nest was still in the 100000's, but this past year it was down to less that 250. A huge drop, actually an extreamly scary drop. Why is that? The lights of Tamarindo very very close by are distracting the turtles and confusing them, so that has made the number drop. Some also say that Earth Watch is doing more harm than good (ex. about 10 years ago in Mexico they tried a similar way of saving the Leatherbacks there, but what they didn't know was that the temperature of the water determines the sex of the Turtle, this caused only males to be born for many many years, and there are now no Leatherbacks that come to Mexico), and although they know this now, what don't they know?

Love, the Lukies............

Nosara

So, we aren't in Nosara anymore, but let me try to catch you all up slowly. My head is still a little fuzzy from the panic attacks that I am suffering, but I have an appointment tomorrow morning with a naturopath who should help!!!

Nosara was a beautiful place, and the Harmony was Heavon on Earth. When I booked us into the Harmony Hotel, I really had no idea what we were in for. But as soon as our driver dropped us off it was evident that we were about to be spoiled! Within only moments I was already feeling calm and relaxed. The interior was fresh and warm, clean and inviting. We were greeted at the reception by friendly and very helpful staff who explained to us how the Harmony Hotel works. The steps that they take every day to help the environment (recycling, reusing grey water, etc), also to help the local animals (both Monkeys and Turtles), local children, and using local and organic foods. This was actually the first time on our trip so far that I had seen anything to do with Recycling! (although I'm sure it's not the only place in Costa Rica). During our introductions, we were brought delicious welcome drinks, and shown to our room ( I forgot to ask what the drink was, and am a little sad I don't know). Down the little pathways and past the quaint pool, the lush greenery and exotic plants, and we were there. The Harmony Hotel is a one story hotel and has both traditional hotel rooms and separate little villas. All beautifully decorated in traditional bare wood, and wood painted white. Our room was number 15, a large one bed villa slightly away from the main reception, pool and restaurant, which was nice since we had the boys. There was a small sitting desk where we could use our lap-top free of charge, a large king size bed with crisp white sheets and pillows, a cute sofa that we turned into a bed for the boys, and a coffee table. There were Britt chocolate covered coffee beans (white and dark chocolate) and Macadamian nuts for treats near the coffee and coffee machine, and the fridge had a few beers and water bottles (which they hope you reuse, the water here is tested periodically and is safe to drink). The closet held around a dozen shirts, but there wasn't much room to keep suitcases, nor was there a dresser of sorts. The washroom was large with a huge open tiled shower, separate toilet and sinks, and a beautiful tiled tub with slide out windows to the garden outside. The Harmony Hotel also offers some wonderfully exotic shampoos and rinses. Mint and Black Pepper Shampoo, Jasmine and Grandiflorum Conditioner, and Costa Rican Coffee and Lemon Body wash. Yum! The walk to the beach is about 2 minutes, down a cute little path the same as most of the others on the property. You pass the surf boards for rent, cross a small path, and continue on. You can't miss it. The beach is beautiful, nice soft sand, sea shells, and of course killer waves. The Harmony Hotel has a guard on duty for most of the day at the beach, all guests are welcome to leave their belongings with him for safe keeping. During our 3 night stay we ate at the restaurant for 3 wonderful break-fasts (pancakes, fresh fruit, smoothies, french toast, omelets), 3 amazing lunches (pasta, fish, sandwiches, salads) and 3 delicious dinners (the green coconut curry fish with stir-fry veggies and jasmine rice was my favorite)! Because they use local and organic foods, if something is not in season, they will not have it. So if you order the Roti with Mango Chutney sauce in November, you will not receive the sauce, Mango's are not in season, a lesson we learned.

We had a great time there for our 3 nights. We went to the beach every day and watched the sunsets every night. Played in the pool a lot and ate amazing food. We even took the 5 minute walk into 'town'. There they had a few more restaurants and hotels, 2 real estate offices and a few artisan shops. After our 3 days we headed 10 minutes north (still staying in Nosara) and stayed at the Guilded Iguana. This was a much more laid back place. The rooms were definatly not as nice and the walk to the beach was double the time of the Harmony, but there were a lot of travellors here and we got to meet some great people. Most of the people here were surfers, either in a group or with families. Most were from the states that we met. Jonathan was travelling on his own, a treat for his birthday. He was an acupunturist from California who liked to travel on his own and see new places. He's been to Nosara before, but Pete and the group his was with were here for the surf and adventure. There were also a few kids running around that the boys got a chance to play with. At one point they were all in our room watching Finding Nemo (a movie we rented at the internet cafe, we also had a chance to exchange our book that we had finished reading last week. Chris and I watched fracture, not a bad flick).

Also, I have to mention. Twice when Callym and I were wadding in the Ocean, only about mid calf deep, what did we see? Rays! They weren't too big, maybe the size of a small pizza, but there they were, swimming around and floating by our toes. A very cool thing in deed.

At the Guilded Iguana we had a great time. Good people, great food, and lots more sand and surf. The day we were leaving was sad, but our trip was only a 2 and a half hour ride. The boys did great, and the roads weren't too bad either.